Locus Restaurant is one of those places that Vancouver does well; funky decor with approachable food and committed to local suppliers and seasonal ingredients.
I was breaking in a new Brunch Buddy this week day. Yes, a weekday meal does sound more like breakfast but we did meet later in the morning so I tend to think of it as a sort of hybrid between the two. Locus opens early (9:00AM) every day to serve breakfast. It’s one of the few eateries in town that actually does that.
The menu choices are focused yet varied. There are a variety of scramblers, bennies, omelettes and the usual classics. The new buddy went with the huevos rancheros; two eggs any style, hand-made masa corn tostado, cheddar-Monterrey Jack cheese blend, black beans, salsa fresca, sour cream, & guacamole served with herbed roasted potatoes & mixed seasonal greens. The colours on the plate were a feast for the eyes. My friend said the tostada was crunchy, the beans were plentiful and the eggs well cooked. They were out of guacamole when we got there so there was a generous serving of avocado on the plate as a substitute.
I know salads at breakfast or brunch is a polarizing topic for some; you either love or hate the idea. This wasn’t a throwaway pile of greens or iceberg lettuce. It was a well balanced salad with just enough dressing to add a zap of freshness to the plate. It was a nice touch.
What did I have? Well, this girl of Greek Cypriot descent could not pass up on the scrambler made with turkey sausage and halloumi cheese. If you haven’t had halloumi cheese, it’s a Cypriot cheese that is semi-hard and brined. It has a high melting point so you can grill it or fry it and it won’t lose shape.
The sausage was excellent. We both agreed on that. The eggs were tasty if not a tad over-cooked. Ever since a trip to New Orleans twenty years ago, I’ve liked my scrambled eggs cooked slow and low. It results in a creamier egg scramble. I’ve yet to find it in Vancouver, but I still hold out hope. The halloumi was dense and chewy and added a nice textural change to the dish. If they had given the cubes a quick grill before adding to the eggs, it would have been superb.
If you’re a regular reader of this blog you know that the Boss and I consider deep fried to be the lazy way to make morning potatoes. (I like them more than she does, though). When the menu says roasted, it means roasted, with just a touch of rosemary. This is a great sign that the kitchen cares about what it serves and I have no doubt that it portends well for the lunch and evening menu, as well.
If you love your toast then this isn’t the place for you. If you love fresh specialty breads delivered to your table with two types of flavoured butter (one sweet, one savoury), then Locus was made for you. It was such a refreshing change to the usual bread and toast offered by most restaurants.
The only coffee that Locus serves is an Americano. By 11:00AM in the morning, it was just what the doctor ordered. Leaving the best for last, let’s talk about the service. It was fabulous. The woman taking care of our table did just that; take care of us. She was charming, funny and gave us just the right amount of attention. She’s worth going back for, as was the quality of the coffee.
Locus Restaurant and Lounge is one of those funky neighbourhood spots that always appears busy. There’s a reason for it, and I would suggest it might be time you found out why for yourself.
Movie Recommendation: Pirate Radio (2009) is a funky comedy that brings the music of the 60’s alive. It’s eclectic, fun and has great attention to detail; kind of like Locus.
4221 Main St (near King Ed)
Open for breakfast daily from 9 am